Maintaining a Wheelchair: Tyres, Brakes and Cushions

A little routine care goes a long way

A wheelchair works hard for you every single day, often in rain, on kerbs, through gravel and across the occasional bumpy threshold. It rarely asks for much in return, but a short, regular maintenance routine makes a genuine difference to how it feels to push, how safe it is to stop, and how long the whole thing lasts before it needs replacing. Ten minutes a week, plus a slightly longer session once a month, is usually enough. The three things worth watching most closely are tyres, brakes and cushions — the parts that most directly affect effort, safety and comfort.

Tyres: the difference between gliding and grinding

If your chair has pneumatic tyres, check the pressure once a week with a proper gauge rather than a squeeze of the thumb. The recommended pressure is normally printed on the sidewall, and for most manual chairs it sits somewhere between 30 and 50 psi, though some are lower. Soft tyres feel comfortable at first but they cost you dearly: pushing becomes heavier, the chair drifts and pulls, rolling resistance rises and the rim takes more of a beating over kerbs.

• Under-inflated: hard work to push, sluggish steering, greater risk of pinch punctures and rim damage.
• Over-inflated: a harsh, jarring ride, less grip on wet pavements and faster, uneven tread wear.

While you're checking pressure, run your fingers slowly around the tread and pick out grit, glass, thorns and small stones with tweezers before they work their way through. Look for bald patches where the tread has flattened across the middle — that's the point to replace rather than repair. Solid or puncture-proof tyres need no pumping, but do check for flat spots, cracking and any sign of the tyre separating from the rim.

Spin each wheel and watch the rim: a slight wobble often means a buckled rim or loose spokes, which is a job worth handing to a technician. Store spare inner tubes and a pump with the chair, and check the valve type so you buy the right one. With pneumatic tyres, a puncture repair kit and the knowledge to use it will save you a very long walk home one day.

Brakes: the check that matters most for safety

Wheel locks on a manual chair are parking brakes, not slowing-down brakes, but they still need to hold firmly. Engage each one and try to push the chair forwards and backwards. Movement should be minimal — a few millimetres at most. If the chair creeps, the brake needs adjusting closer to the tyre, usually by loosening the clamp bolt and sliding the assembly along its rail.

Adjust so the brake bites into the tyre slightly, without sinking in deeply, as too much pressure will damage the rubber. Replace worn brake shoes as soon as the rubber looks shiny, hardened or visibly reduced. On chairs with cable-operated brakes, check the cable for fraying and stretch, and add a drop of light oil to the pivots — never to the pad itself. A brake that snags or refuses to release is a safety issue, not an inconvenience, so get it seen to promptly.

If you use a powered chair, test the electromagnetic brakes on a gentle slope. They should hold the chair when it's switched off and release with a clear click when you turn it on. Any grinding, delay or drift needs professional attention.

Cushions: protecting skin, not just your seat

Cushions are quietly doing one of the most important jobs on the chair. Press the foam with your palm and compare one side with the other; if it stays compressed and doesn't spring back, the cushion has lost its support and needs replacing. Rotate or turn it if the design allows, and follow the maker's instructions for topping up air cells or checking gel for leaks and hard lumps.

Wash the cover regularly according to the label — many tolerate a 60-degree cycle — and keep a spare so you're never without one. Check the base of the cushion is sitting flat and that it isn't sliding forwards, which often signals the wrong size or a worn, shiny seat. A non-slip mat underneath helps. Most importantly, check your skin daily, particularly at the base of the spine, the heels and the hips. A cushion that has quietly given up is one of the most common causes of pressure damage.

Frame, castors and fasteners

Once a month, wipe the frame down and look closely at the welds and folding joints for hairline cracks. Castors are the usual culprits behind heavy, wandering steering: hair, thread and fluff wrap around the axle and strangle the swivel. Clear it with tweezers or the tip of a craft knife — but don't oil the axle, as oil attracts more grit. Then go round the whole chair with the correct spanner and check that nuts and bolts are snug, since vibration loosens them over time.

A simple rhythm to keep it all on track

Weekly: pressure, treads, brake hold and a quick cushion check. Monthly: castors, fasteners, frame, a proper clean and a look at the footplates and armrest latches. Annually: a professional service, or sooner if you notice wobbling, grinding, a chair that pulls to one side, or brakes that won't adjust. Keep a note of dates and any parts replaced, and store the chair somewhere dry rather than a damp shed. Look after it, and it will look after you. If anything feels beyond a spanner and a pump, ask your local mobility service or trusted technician — that's what they're there for.